CIO Chassis In One incorporates the best features of many different coatings to be a superb all round product.
CIO is semi self etching, so has high adhesion to many different substrates such as steel, keyed aluminium, and corrosion. Its a black satin finish so gives a great OEM look, stabilises corrosion, is a primer so can be top coated, and is also a top coat so doesn't have to be over coated. Add to this it is a zero rust creep product, can be applied by various means, is very tough with Impregnated Toughened glass flake and is very fast cure it is one of our most popular products.
Available in :-
PAINT TINS 125ML > 5000ML
Direct to light to medium firmly adherent rust
primer for most 1k and 2k coatings. (test patch first)
Compatible with some synthetics once fully cured.
Good protection of many different metals such as aluminium, and and steel.
Production Environment/ Time limited application.
Harsh environments such as under vehicles, marine, or coastal environments
Use as a two coat solution with no need to top coat
patch repair work on vehicles such as spot corrosion repair
Has extremely good opacity. It is therefore very easy to not put enough on as the substrate appears "protected".
Fast cure coating so in windy/ high temperature scenarios it can be impossible to use.
Mildly contamination intolerant. Requires good prep to be effective.
Remove all Loose paint, wax, and underseal using a paint remover.
If any wax/underseal/wet wax was used previously it must be THOROUGHLY removed with a solvent degreaser.
Provide a key for maximum adhesion (use an abrasive to achieve this)
If any grease, or contamination is present remove with a suitable product such as panel wipe or contamination killer
Clean down the surface using clean water and a Scotchbrite type scourer before drying.
There is no requirement to remove all rust. You are looking ideally for a clean, dull surface, providing the coating something to adhere to.
If applying to medium to heavier corrosion manual application by wetting out brush should be used. Precaution should be taken that on heavier corrosion CIO is not applied in a warm breezy environment as it will cure too fast and not wet out correctly. Apply the coating in a vigorous manner, working the coating in to the substrate. Air bubbles are likely to raise to the surface as the product is agitated and continues to wet out.
Best prep is direct to the base metal, but can overcoat most other coatings. Test patches if unsure.
Shake the can for two full minutes with the agitating ball active.
Apply in cross coats at 90 degree angles allowing the coating to cure between coats.
Coating will take 5>15 minutes to tack off, and around 1/2 a day to fully harden. can be over coated with CIO as soon as its touch dry, leave longer if doing heavier coats with a brush or similar.
Following application if the entire aerosol is not used invert the can fully and depress the nozzle for 2>3 seconds to clear the actuator so it can be used again later. Consider an aerosol unblocker kit. CIO aerosols can block within a minute if you do not clear the nozzle after each use.
Be sure to apply enough product. "Blacking" is the process of applying enough product to cover an item with colour, but not enough to protect it. Failure typically occurs within 6 months, and will result in spot rust and sub surface corrosion occurring. You are aiming for Sufficient DFT (Dry Film Thickness) to cover the piece properly. CIO has extremely good opacity, and will black a substrate with only around 30% of the actual amount of product needed for a typical application.
ALWAYS a minimum of two coats. Heavy corrosion up to 5 coats with the aerosol. If unsure contact us.
Stir and agitate the product thoroughly prior to use using an agitator.
The product can be brushed, rollered or sprayed.
Using a seam sealing, or turkshead brush, work the first coat in to the substrate/ metal you are looking to protect. This has the added benefit of greatly increasing the ability of the product to wet out benefiting the application in several ways.
After you have applied your first coat, allow it to cure for 30> 60 minutes typically.
Apply your second coat using a large softer brush so as not to damage the first coat. The coating will tend to self-level and leave you a good finish.
Coating will take 18>36 hours depending on conditions to fully harden.
2 coats for a prepared base, or light corrosion, 3 coats medium corrosion.
We recommend you use a long handled narrow roller for application. This gives you a higher pressure of application for the roller, assisting wetting out properties, and gives you better access and control.
The solvents in CIO can attack cheap rollers. Purchase rollers that are solvent compatible.
Apply the first coat using reasonable force and a slow pass with the roller. Repeat the rollering process in the same area several times if existing corrosion is present to assist wetting out and adhesion later on. Do not spread the product out so far that you reduce the amount of coating, and thus reduce the protection available.
Allow coating to cure semi-hard for a few hours depending on conditions, prior to adding a second or third coat.
Ensure coating is hard dry prior to use.
2 coats for a prepared base, or light corrosion, 3 coats medium corrosion.
CIO Can be sprayed by various means.
Buzzweld underbody gun. Extend the nozzle on the gun fully and set the pressure to a minimum of 90 psi. pressure can be elevated up to 150psi, the product warmed, or thinned to affect coverage, film thickness, and conditions of use. CIO Sprays very well in this gun with minimal spitting
Buzzweld 1.8MM Suction Feed gun. Thin CIO using CIO Thinners up to 15%. Using a 400 Micron strainer load the gun with product, and set the pressure between 60- and 70 psi. Thin the MINIMUM so you can use less coats and save time.
Spray as per normal spraying instructions, building up the product. We would suggest you allow the product to cure for a few hours, and then apply a minimum of a second coat. Three would be ideal, but time or requirement may not permit this.
3 coats medium corrosion. 4 for heavier corrosion. (2 can be used if not thinning too much, and corrosion isn't too heavy. you will need to use heavier coats, and adjust your cure and overcoating times accordingly).
CIO is unlikely to react with most products used correctly. Sensible guidelines to reduce the risk of product reactions are as follows.
Ensure that any existing product to be top coated with CIO is FULLY cured prior to top coating. There is a big difference between hard and fully cured. For example 2 pack acrylics can be hard same day, but take up to two weeks to fully harden so that they can be machine polished.
If a reaction has occurred, or is suspected, such as insufficient cure time available, then use a light first coat, with minimal thinner if spraying. If using an aerosol, then spray from a greater distance, and do not not flood, or build the product too fast. effectively "dust" the first coat. Subsequent coats can be applied with increasing build, and reduced risk of reaction
If a coating reacts even after sufficient cure time, contact us for advise, or use a Barcoat Isolator as an intermediary coating.
Stabilises corrosion using rust to protect the base metal.
Tough, touch dry coating, with good resistance to abrasion, and a high build.
Superb wetting out properties reinforced with extreme resistance to porosity.
Ideal as an all in one fast applied solution for chassis and vehicle parts.
Can be top coated with most industrial and automotive coatings.
semi self etching, so high adhesion to most substrates.
Always a minimum of two coats
Always allow the first coat a suitable cure period prior to second or third coat.
apply to dry, clean, non contaminated surface
Key the surface to a dull finish
Extra pre if the existing coating is a wet waxoil type product, or an underseal.
Use fossil fuel heaters in or around coatings when applying or curing. They are not only a fire hazard, but they introduce massive amounts of moisture to the air.
Use Cellulose thinners of any kind as prep, or a thinning agent.
Use thinners to thin the product that are not CIO specific thinners. CIO is a specific hybrid coating, and using the incorrect thinners can cause premature failure, delamination, and porosity.
Apply to a wet substrate without specific advice from ourselves first.
Top coat existing coatings that are not fully cured
"Clean" the surface with thinners
1/2 can per wheel arch
6 cans for a small chassis
6 cans for a large chassis (if using a primer)
8>10 cans for a large chassis no primer
4 cans for a small chassis cavity
6 cans for a large chassis cavity
2500ML for a chassis and axles up to 110 size if not pitted/ rough profile.
8.5M2/1000ML if top coating a primer with a smooth substrate
7.3m2/1000ML if top coating a rough substrate with no primer
300ML per average wheel arch (using two coats)
Please be aware cure times can vary wildly. Air movement, film thickness, relative humidity, air flow and temperature all play a large part in the actual cure time of a product. Additionally temperatures below 10C can see the cure times extend exponentially if all conditions above contribute in a negative way.
10C Touch Dry 20 minutes, Hard dry 2>4 hours, through dry 18>24 hours
20C Touch Dry 5>10 minutes, Hard dry 1>2 hours, through dry 8>18 hours
10C Touch Dry 40 minutes, Hard dry 6>8 hours, through dry 24>36 hours
20C Touch Dry 20 minutes, Hard dry 2>4 hours, through dry 12>24 hours
Thought I best start my thread to help me Put it back together when I've finished stripping it down and show others some of products from the buzzweld shop that I am using.
Looking at the other builds here it cant't really be called a rebuild as it's mostly paint
This is it as purchased Dec 2012
and last week when the strip own started,
After a couple of days I have reached,
Hopefully over the next week I can get it fully stripped and expose all the panels that need work, at the moment it just the rear floor, front and second row seat box, and top inside corners of the bulkhead, the rest looks solid. 🤞
Hi been looking at the site for a while now,
I would like to coat the chassis of my L200 and something for the inside to.
Ideally I would like to paint the outside, which product and how much will I need?
Photo's and progress reports. Thanks