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  2. Thanks Al, Building from the ground up is fun for me. Yes, I'm using a Mercedes OM603 diesel, in it now, Diesel Pump UK will rebuild the pump with 7.5mm elements, build a custom exhaust manifold and will use one of their hybrid k14 fast spool turbos. Will give 270hp-280hp and 440Nm torque. I will be starting the new 100" chassis first of August, anxious to get started building the new chassis, incorporating a few things I learned building the first one. I need to update my thread on Buzzweld FB Page. Cheers, Allen
  3. Allen, well done in the work so far, looking forward to seeing this with the big Mercedes engine in it( sure that’s what Facebook tells me), just wish I had your enthusiasm, Its certainly a daunting task you’ve taken on, if my truck had been in the same condition as yours I think I would have just swept it up into a black bag and moved on! It’s just a pity I’ll only ever see this in pictures!
  4. Why is it when you think you’re moving forward life can give you a subtle reminder that it can be messed with and really mess you about, coming upto Christmas in 2017 things we’re going good then I lost my father very unexpectedly after sorting out that aftermath it really knocked me for six and couldn’t really face the rebuild I left it on the back burner till I felt better, in the spring I got the chassis fully stripped and sent it off for media blasting, at the same time it was time to get ready for a charity banger drive from Edinburgh to Rome with my £460 jaguar AWD xtype so of course it took priority and after doing the charity drive me and my friend and I managed to raise about £4500 for the brain tumour trust, the bad bit about all this was in the middle of it I lost my father in-law unexpectedly, it just doesn’t make me feel like rebuilding things if I’m honest, however I get my chassis back this week fully blasted and coated in 2k armour ready to be filled with cavity paint and war then fully sprayed with war on the outside when I reattach the axles and new suspension! hopefully I can keep my self going and when I finally get my chassis back I can upload some freshly painted photos, it’s nice to see others that are moving forward with there builds and it all helps with the motivation the fear now is will I remember how to put it back together and did I take enough photos? He ho it is what it is and I’m sure I’ll fine what I’m looking for with dr google as my friend...
  5. Yes I certainly do actually! :-) I’ve been posting updates on Buzzweld’s FB page. I’ll post up all the updates here and keep posting updates here now too. Cheers, Allen
  6. Roy

    hi Roy. bit of a late reply. what is the general condition of the chassis etc? and what prep can you do? there is a good guide here on how to decide what chassis paint to use http://www.buzzweld.co.uk/blog/how-to-choose-a-chassis-paint.html
  7. allen. not seen any updates in a while im just starting to get back into the forum and build it up. be good to see if you have any updates for here?
  8. Roy

    Hi I've an 07 mk 7 transit the chassis is in a bad way already, am wondering weather it can be sorted by a good welder and the protected. Or should I just cut my losses and get something better.
  9. Here is the pattern for the front spring hangers, there are four pieces like this all 1/4" material that welds on each side of the chassis horn. The blue line shows were the 1/4" plates go to box in the bottom of hanger and where the actual spring hanger welds onto the base. The red line just shows the outline of the chassis horn. These will have two 3/8" holes drilled and tapped so Buzzweld etch primer, CIO & WAR can be applied to the inside of the boxed section and then a bolt with sealant put in holes to seal it up, till want to check and re-coat if needed, all boxed in sections will have either taped holes or drain holes, depending on location and situation so all interior areas will be coated with Buzzweld etch primer, CIO & war. All the outer surfaces of the chassis, axles, driveline ect, will be coated in Buzzweld 2K Armor, CIO & WAR. Rust should not be a problem! lol Cheers, Allen
  10. Tis is the rear spring hanger, it's being made in 1/4" material, each side takes two side plates and the 1/4" dark line on the pattern is showing where the 3" wide plate gets welded to make a box, then the 1/4" spring hanger with reinforcing piece that gets welded in is welded to the bottom like in the pic. The hole of the spring hanger is 2" lower, like the military version and 2" to the rear to increase the wheelbase by 2" to 90", the rear shackle hangers are moved rearward 2" also, of course. The drawing, real high tech eh? lol Pattern made and test fitted. Final pattern checked against the drawing. Shoeing how the spring hanger fits. And one of the spring hanger. I'll take pics of the front spring hanger tomorrow. Cheers, Allen
  11. This is the bolt in cross member that goes under the gearbox, 1-1/2"x 2" x 3/16" and it will have the 3/16" angled front reinforcement (already made but didn't get pic) drilled and tapped for application of etch primer, CIO & WAR. The outer ends will be cut, boxed in and will bolt to brackets welded to the chassis rail. Cutting out the 3/16" rear axle truss. This is all the pieces cut out of 3mm, ready to be welded up to make up all six outriggers. The bulkhead outriggers will have holes apply etch primer, CIO & WAR to the insides. Cheers, Allen
  12. I haven't been able to make as much progress as I had hoped to recently, did get some smaller parts designed and built, ready for welding. But next week I'll be getting the steel so I can finish building the chassis! Right after I build a welding cart for my new welder. :-) Decided to go ahead and get a good welder, a Hobart 210 MVP and is big enough to weld anything on the build, actually it can can weld up 3/8'. This is the under the flywheel bolt in cross member, it's 2"x 3"x 3/16" with 1/4" plates to bolt through the chassis rails using sleeves in the bolt holes. The first pic shows it without the 1-1/2"x 1-1/2" x 3/16" angle and the 3/16" vertical reinforcements from the tubes to the plates, the second pic shows them sitting in place. The angle pieces will be welded to the main cross member for reinforcement, but mostly to have an angled face on the front the cross member so if it hits a rock or something, it doesn't present a flat face to take the impact and help it slide up and over, since it's going to get smacked on occasion. Both the 2"x 3" tubes and the angle section will have either 3/8" or 1/2" holes drilled and tapped so can coat insides with etch prime, CIO and WAR, then thread a bolt in the holes to seal them up, later can unbolt them, flush insides and recoat if wanted. These are the vertical braces tying in the 2 x 3 to the side plates, and making them all uniform size. Cheers, Allen
  13. Rusty bolts and things hold you up? Lizardskin would be a good product to incorporate into your rebuild there.
  14. Well that didn't work! So much for thinking that I could get it stripped over the next week!! Finally got back to it yesterday and got the b/c pillars off and the rear tub, I should manage a couple of hours on it again over the weekend so hopefully I'll get the bulkhead stripped down ready for removal. So far I've had to cut off over half the bolts I think the last under seal was a bit late as it had rusted out most of the fixings. Still happy with its condition though just the bulkhead that's worse than expected, I need to keep this moving forward before I forget where all the bolts go 🤔
  15. Thought I best start my thread to help me Put it back together when I've finished stripping it down and show others some of products from the buzzweld shop that I am using. Looking at the other builds here it cant't really be called a rebuild as it's mostly paint This is it as purchased Dec 2012 and last week when the strip own started, After a couple of days I have reached, Hopefully over the next week I can get it fully stripped and expose all the panels that need work, at the moment it just the rear floor, front and second row seat box, and top inside corners of the bulkhead, the rest looks solid. 🤞
  16. Well I thought I'd start a post about my 69' SIIA build. The reason I call it a build and not a rebuild probably make sense as I tell a bit a bout it. :-) I'm on the Big Island Hawaii and kinda stumbled into a 69"IIA SWB, in serious need of help. Here she is on the trailer ready to go home. Found her on the very top tip of the Island, about 100 mi away. Heres a close up of the front after she got home. Ok, from such humble beginnings a new SIIA will eventually emerge, as if a butterfly from it's cocoon. I'll try not to be boring... I have spent the last year figuring and designing what I want her to be, viewing everything as part of an over all system, with no one thing jumping out as noticeable. As in, wow, thats a big lift and big tires or something. I'm building her like a Land Rover SIIA, built in the 90s using the type of components from then, which to me are kinda the pinnacle of LR technology, still rugged and without much electrical and no electronics. So here's a basic overview of her build specs: Front axle modified Toyota FJ60 axle housings, long side shorter, short side lengthened, so diff sits in standard location, with truss and a bit of reinforcing, RCV custom 30 spline shafts & 300M CV joints & drive flange, 4" wider WMS to WMS, FJ60 diff, V6 Toyota calipers (2-38mm & 2 42mm pistons) vented LC discs, Sixshooter knuckles, custom steer from behind (puts tie rods above and behind axle, out of way & protected) steering sys with GM 1 ton tie rod ends, FJ60 steering box, Vanco Hydro brakes (no vacuum pump & booster) upgraded PS pump to run PS & brakes. Brake lines all in gravel guard. Rear axle, modified FJ60 housing, long side shortened, short side lengthened, 2.5" wider WMS to WMS, truss & a bit of reinforcing, Ruff Stuff disc/FF flange, LC front hub, chromoly front spindle, custom RCV 30 spline axles & press fit drive flange, FJ60 vented rotors & caliper (4-38mm pistons, don't need as much power on rear wheels) FJ60 diff, axle moved 2" aft using redrilled spring perch & extension plate, giving 90" WB, but can be converted back to 88" easily. Building chassis, I have finished making the patterns. 3.5mm material for chassis rails, cross member 1 & 4, Richard Chassis 109 Military 1 ton dumb irons, Australian Military 1/2 ton SWB rear spring hangers (duel hight spring eye holes) bulkhead outriggers, LH & RH fuel outriggers (duel Alisport aluminum fuel tanks) under engine cross member built up (3"x1.5" x 1/4") bolt in cross member, under gearbox built up (1.5"x2"x1/4") bolt in cross member, rear cross member, built from 4"x6"x 3/16" and a 4"x1"x3/16" tube welded to bottom of cross member and cut out to same profile as stock SIIA cross member, but stronger and no places to catch water. Suspension, Rocky Mountain 3 leaf Parabolics. Rear parabolic springs used on front, flipped around, so chassis horns & dumb irons only need to be extended 3-1/4", Ruff Stuff DOM bushed sleeves for shackles, Ruff Stuff HD rear shackle hangers, Ford F250 extended shock towers, Bilstein 7100 long travel (TBD probably 14" travel) shocks. LC 5.5x16 split rims, 255/85-16 MT tires. rear swing away basket that can carry 3 jerry cans, Protection & Performance roll cage kit with chassis tie ins & steel tube snorkel, building a brush bar very similar to the Camel Trophy Defenders, but customized to look proper on an SIIA, HD 4"x4"x1/4 bumper. Undercover Covers tilt and frame, I have a tropical hard top roof and sides that can be put on later if wanted, early Defender front seats, rebuilt using temper foam, cubby box, 4 rebuilt fold up rear seats. Remanufactured, tuned 300Tdi, Turner performance head, slam panel removed, using SI/Military bonnet clips makes possible to use Alisport full width 70mm XL radiator and full width front mount intercooler, remanufactured Stubby R380 & LT230 with a few strength upgrades, deluxe dished bonnet to carry spare on bonnet, Rocky Mountain door tops. New bulkhead built by Dave Marsh. Using full suite of Buzzweld's products for all paint, primer, coatings etc. The only thing that might not be Buzzweld will be top coat of Bronze Green body paint. Using the best product for each area of the vehicle and will document everything and take pics of the various steps of each type of product for all the different components, from disc calipers to chassis to engine and gearbox coatings. I think this may be the first ground up build using the full suite of Buzzweld products. I'm looking forward to using the best combination of the best Buzzweld products for any given part or components, for maximum long term protection and performance. I'll be ordering my first batch of Buzzweld products next week to be put on the pallet with the 300Tdi, gearbox, TC and some other stuff, then will be putting another order to be sent over on the pallet with the bulkhead Dave is building for me, to finish up the rest of the coatings and finishes needed. Oh and for the offroad trailer I'll be building for the SIIA to pull, it will get the full house Buzzweld treatment too! I'll be starting on the chassis in couple weeks, I've worked on the axle housings and have them ready to have the ends machined. I'll get some pics up of the axle housings in next day or so. Hopefully I haven't bored everyone to tears! :-) I think it's going to be a fun little adventure. I tend to like the technical side of things and like to know the details of things. If I'm being too detailed, please let me know. Cheers, Allen
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