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  1. Buzzweld

    1. Introductions

      Don't be shy! Introduce yourself to the Buzzweld community..

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    3. Buzzweld Coatings Prototyping & Development

      Buzzweld are constantly striving to improve products and increase our range, keep up to date with all the latest product news and information on our protective coatings.

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    4. Buzzweld Sponsorships

      Buzzweld are proud sponsors of Titan Racing, they really put our products to the test in some of the harshest conditions, find out what Team Titan say about Buzzweld!

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  2. Buzzweld Products

    1. LizardSkin UK.

      LizardSkin Sound Control, LizardSkin Ceramic Insulation, and LizardSkin topcoat UK Distributor.

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    2. All In One protective coatings

      Buzzweld offer a range of 'All In One' coatings that will prolong the life of your vehicles chassis. Check out our extensive range of tried and tested rust preventing AIO protective coatings.

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    7. PPE

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  3. Buzzweld Application Centers

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    1. Alpine Restorations

      We specialise in high quality sales-servicing-repairs of the iconic Land Rover Defender From a small welding job to a complete rebuild.

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  4. Customer Projects

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  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Here is the pattern for the front spring hangers, there are four pieces like this all 1/4" material that welds on each side of the chassis horn. The blue line shows were the 1/4" plates go to box in the bottom of hanger and where the actual spring hanger welds onto the base. The red line just shows the outline of the chassis horn. These will have two 3/8" holes drilled and tapped so Buzzweld etch primer, CIO & WAR can be applied to the inside of the boxed section and then a bolt with sealant put in holes to seal it up, till want to check and re-coat if needed, all boxed in sections will have either taped holes or drain holes, depending on location and situation so all interior areas will be coated with Buzzweld etch primer, CIO & war. All the outer surfaces of the chassis, axles, driveline ect, will be coated in Buzzweld 2K Armor, CIO & WAR. Rust should not be a problem! lol    Cheers, Allen
    • Tis is the rear spring hanger, it's being made in 1/4" material, each side takes two side plates and the 1/4" dark line on the pattern is showing where the 3" wide plate gets welded to make a box, then the 1/4" spring hanger with reinforcing piece that gets welded in is welded to the bottom like in the pic.   The hole of the spring hanger is 2" lower, like the military version and 2" to the rear to increase the wheelbase by 2" to 90", the rear shackle hangers are moved rearward 2" also, of course.    The drawing, real high tech eh? lol Pattern made and test fitted. Final pattern checked against the drawing. Shoeing how the spring hanger fits. And one of the spring hanger. I'll take pics of the front spring hanger tomorrow. Cheers, Allen          
    • This is the bolt in cross member that goes under the gearbox, 1-1/2"x 2" x 3/16" and it will have the 3/16" angled front reinforcement (already made but didn't get pic) drilled and tapped for application of etch primer, CIO & WAR. The outer ends will be cut, boxed in and will bolt to brackets welded to the chassis rail.  Cutting out the 3/16" rear axle truss.   This is all the pieces cut out of 3mm, ready to be welded up to make up all six outriggers. The bulkhead outriggers will have holes apply etch primer, CIO & WAR to the insides. Cheers, Allen          
    • I haven't been able to make as much progress as I had hoped to recently, did get some smaller parts designed and built, ready for welding. But next week I'll be getting the steel so I can finish building the chassis! Right after I build a welding cart for my new welder. :-)  Decided to go ahead and get a good welder, a Hobart 210 MVP and is big enough to weld anything on the build, actually it can can weld up 3/8'.   This is the under the flywheel bolt in cross member, it's 2"x 3"x 3/16" with 1/4" plates to bolt through the chassis rails using sleeves in the bolt holes. The first pic shows it without the 1-1/2"x 1-1/2" x 3/16" angle and the 3/16" vertical reinforcements from the tubes to the plates, the second pic shows them sitting in place. The angle pieces will be welded to the main cross member for reinforcement, but mostly to have an angled face on the front  the cross member so if it hits a rock or something, it doesn't present a flat face to take the impact and help it slide up and over, since it's going to get smacked on occasion. Both the 2"x 3" tubes and the angle section will have either 3/8" or 1/2" holes drilled and tapped so can coat insides with etch prime, CIO and WAR, then thread a bolt in the holes to seal them up, later can unbolt them, flush insides and recoat if wanted.          These are the vertical braces tying in the 2 x 3 to the side plates, and making them all uniform size.     Cheers, Allen            
    • Rusty bolts and things hold you up? Lizardskin would be a good product to incorporate into your rebuild there.
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