abosely

69' SIIA Build

23 posts in this topic

Well I thought I'd start a post about my 69' SIIA build. The reason I call it a build and not a rebuild probably make sense as I tell a bit a bout it. :-)

I'm on the Big Island Hawaii and kinda stumbled into a 69"IIA SWB, in serious need of help.

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Here she is on the trailer ready to go home. Found her on the very top tip of the Island, about 100 mi away.

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Heres a close up of the front after she got home. 

Ok, from such humble beginnings a new SIIA will eventually emerge, as if a butterfly from it's cocoon.

I'll try not to be boring... I have spent the last year figuring and designing what I want her to be, viewing everything as part of an over all system, with no one thing jumping out as noticeable. As in, wow, thats a big lift and big tires or something.

I'm building her like a Land Rover SIIA, built in the 90s using the type of components from then, which to me are kinda the pinnacle of LR technology, still rugged and without much electrical and no electronics.

So here's a basic overview of her build specs:

Front axle modified Toyota FJ60 axle housings, long side shorter, short side lengthened, so diff sits in standard location, with truss and a bit of reinforcing, RCV custom 30 spline shafts & 300M CV joints & drive flange, 4" wider WMS to WMS, FJ60 diff, V6 Toyota calipers (2-38mm & 2 42mm pistons) vented LC discs, Sixshooter knuckles, custom steer from behind (puts tie rods above and behind axle, out of way & protected) steering sys with GM 1 ton tie rod ends, FJ60 steering box, Vanco Hydro brakes (no vacuum pump & booster) upgraded PS pump to run PS & brakes. Brake lines all in gravel guard. 

Rear axle, modified FJ60 housing, long side shortened, short side lengthened, 2.5" wider WMS to WMS, truss & a bit of reinforcing, Ruff Stuff disc/FF flange, LC front hub, chromoly front spindle, custom RCV 30 spline axles & press fit drive flange, FJ60 vented rotors & caliper (4-38mm pistons, don't need as much power on rear wheels) FJ60 diff, axle moved 2" aft using redrilled spring perch & extension plate, giving 90" WB, but can be converted back to 88" easily. 

Building chassis, I have finished making the patterns. 3.5mm material for chassis rails, cross member 1 & 4, Richard Chassis 109 Military 1 ton dumb irons, Australian Military 1/2 ton SWB rear spring hangers (duel hight spring eye holes) bulkhead outriggers, LH & RH fuel outriggers (duel Alisport aluminum fuel tanks) under engine cross member built up (3"x1.5" x 1/4") bolt in cross member, under gearbox built up (1.5"x2"x1/4") bolt in cross member, rear cross member, built from 4"x6"x 3/16" and a 4"x1"x3/16" tube welded to bottom of cross member and cut out to same profile as stock SIIA cross member, but stronger and no places to catch water.

Suspension, Rocky Mountain 3 leaf Parabolics. Rear parabolic springs used on front, flipped around, so chassis horns & dumb irons only need to be extended 3-1/4", Ruff Stuff DOM bushed sleeves for shackles, Ruff Stuff HD rear shackle hangers, Ford F250 extended shock towers, Bilstein 7100 long travel (TBD probably 14" travel) shocks.   

LC 5.5x16 split rims, 255/85-16 MT tires. rear swing away basket that can carry 3 jerry cans, Protection & Performance roll cage kit with chassis tie ins & steel tube snorkel, building a brush bar very similar to the Camel Trophy Defenders, but customized to look proper on an SIIA, HD 4"x4"x1/4 bumper. Undercover Covers tilt and frame, I have a tropical hard top roof and sides that can be put on later if wanted, early Defender front seats, rebuilt using temper foam, cubby box, 4 rebuilt fold up rear seats.

 Remanufactured, tuned 300Tdi, Turner performance head, slam panel removed, using SI/Military bonnet clips makes possible to use Alisport full width 70mm XL radiator and full width front mount intercooler, remanufactured Stubby R380 & LT230 with a few strength upgrades, deluxe dished bonnet to carry spare on bonnet, Rocky Mountain door tops.

New bulkhead built by Dave Marsh.

Using full suite of Buzzweld's products for all paint, primer, coatings etc. The only thing that might not be Buzzweld will be top coat of Bronze Green body paint. Using the best product for each area of the vehicle and will document everything and take pics of the various steps of each type of product for all the different components, from disc calipers to chassis to engine and gearbox coatings. I think this may be the first ground up build using the full suite of Buzzweld products. I'm looking forward to using the best combination of the best Buzzweld products for any given part or components, for maximum long term protection and performance. I'll be ordering my first batch of Buzzweld products next week to be put on the pallet with the 300Tdi, gearbox, TC and some other stuff, then will be putting another order to be sent over on the pallet with the bulkhead Dave is building for me, to finish up the rest of the coatings and finishes needed. Oh and for the offroad trailer I'll be building for the SIIA to pull, it will get the full house Buzzweld treatment too!   

I'll be starting on the chassis in couple weeks, I've worked on the axle housings and have them ready to have the ends machined. I'll get some pics up of the axle housings in next day or so.         

Hopefully I haven't bored everyone to tears! :-) I think it's going to be a fun little adventure. I tend to like the technical side of things and like to know the details of things. If I'm being too detailed, please let me know. 

Cheers, Allen 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by abosely
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That made for a fantastic read Alan, very in depth and informative, it's good to see how people approach their builds and overcome things in different ways. Following this as I would like to see how it progresses. Thanks for sharing :)

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That is a huge build, and nothing like what I thought it would be!

 

keep us uodated, that is going to be a reall

one of a kind, with so much custom work.

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Decided to use Marlin Crawler 25mm steering pin upgrade & high steer arms. This is practically the same strength as D60.IMG_6365.PNG.a04fcd36c948e173bf26a046e13364d7.PNG

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And use OEM 4 stud steering knuckles  and ARP 2000 knuckle studs. 

Ruff Stuff 23mm weld in tubing adapters. 

IMG_6367.PNG.4a9405cc15a6d1b713d84a198c953adf.PNG

To go in 1.5"X ¼ DOM and FJ80 Tie Rod Ends. Which are almost as big as GM 1 ton TREs.IMG_6366.PNG.da2daf5d3ce5c77bcb606c4ca20e11d9.PNG

The Tie Rods will be tucked above the springs & well out or harms way.

Will be ordering these next week and the dumb irons, outriggers & rear sprin hangers from Richards Chassis.

Rocky Mountain Spares will be shipping two sets of rear Parabolic springs out as soon as they get back from the shows end of August.

Will be cutting metal in couple weeks! Can't wait! :-)

I need to get with Craig and get my first order put in so it can be sent to Dave Marsh to be put on the pallet with the 300Tdi, R380, LT230 & the regalvanized windscreen frame and cappings for their trip to Hawaii first week or so of September.        

I'll post some pics of the axle housings all stripped & ready to have the ends machined in a few days.

Cheers, Allen

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Thanks Craig, I have been thinking and designing out this build for almost a year now. It has slowly come together with input and suggestions from others and from a lot of reading and research. :-)

It's really important to me that she looks "right' when all said and done. As Dave Marsh put it, it will look like a SIIA, but somehow different and will need to be checked out to see whats different. Also for me it's not just about looking nice or impressive, but whats really important is the details that make it up, that everything is done right, components and parts chosen and built so everything is balanced and doesn't have few areas or aspects out of line with the overall build and purpose of the truck.

I want her to be a very capable, rugged, reliable and long lasting truck that can go most anywhere within reason. But not an extreme or extreme looking specialized truck. To look rugged, serious, not military looking, but with the no frills purposeful look of a military truck, sort of mil spec built. If that makes sense. lol

Cheers, Allen     

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Here is some info on the rear axle. 

Starting with FJ60 housing, cut around the drum flange and knock them off. Under the flange is a nice machined surface that is parallel with each other that makes lining up things easier. Both of the machined surfaces will be extended inwards. The long side so it can be shortened and the short side so it can be lengthened.

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A 3.5" OD tube will have the ID machined to fit over the machined surfaces and Ruff Stuff Disc/FF will be welded on housing and tubes. 

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FJ60 front spindles bolt to these amd front hubs go on the spindles. The inside of the spindles get machined to fit Marlin Crawler Ecoseals to keep gear oil in housing, the hubs run grease like they do in the front.

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A spindle with Ecoseal fitted. 5993ef5309119_download(13).png.309afcd3c54c891683ea3f22d85f5a3e.png

Then the pinion angle is set and the spring perches welded on and a Ruff Stuff diff cover is bolted on for protection. R1265-full.jpg.c98540ecd39aac4d99c0bcb9dff0aced.jpg

Cheers, Allen

 

 

 

 

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The front starts out as a FJ60 housing, gets everything cut off it, including the stock sheet metal diff cover and knuckle balls and cleaned up, both housings will be media blasted to bare steel for 2K Armor, CIO and WAR coatings5993f0514f642_download(8).png.5a4ae6f94efc76effae5892f095ae657.png5993f05cbe8ee_download(6).png.f48c4ba4ec1757225ea2e05fe9005717.png5993f0ab10b86_download(7).png.a60edeb2309633c3937a21ac53dafded.png.

The inside where the knuckle balls set are nicely machined, both sides get the machined area deepened. The long side to be shortened and the short side to be shortened 1" so when the extension sleeve is added it will be correct length.

IMG_5979.thumb.JPG.5a808e671939d1345f574810d44905c2.JPG

5993f193bac0e_download(11).png.86a8acd84b20f1eeb008821bb6121bc0.png5993f25949e49_download(9).png.de8a1b80a8bacd5d91d07069adacd9d2.png The extension sleeve and knuckle ball fit tightly, in the pic they are just part way inserted for the pic.

The front is drilled and tapped for the Ruff Stuff Diff cover to bolt on. The front and rear diff covers make a nice way to inspect the diffs in addition to protecting the gears inside. 

 R1265-full.jpg.fdd1e6e6869b8819b612a88d01c520a1.jpg

Then then the caster and pinion angles are set and the spring perches welded on. Hopefully the machine work will be done next week. Both the front and rear housings are getting trusses and some reinforcements also. 

If I am posting too many pics and going into too much detail please let me know.

Cheers, Allen

 

 

 

 

 

 

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I got the machining done on the axle housings.

This is a front housing.

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This is the rear axle. The machined area on the housing gets a tube with it's ID machined to tightly fit on the housing and the OD of the tube sleeve, machined to 3.5" for the FF/Disc flange to fit and a bit larger diameter on the inboard side of the flange so they have a shoulder to set against to help lone them up. 

Here the flange has a front spindle bolted on.

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  Hers is a shot of it with a front hub fitted. That hub is a junk hub just being used for mock up. Waiting for the 'new' hubs to get here.59b2f59b26ff5_IMG_6486(Edited).thumb.JPG.1c19b4127dbf1c4ea766dfd330ccbeda.JPG

 

Edited by abosely
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This is the front axle short side. It is to short without the extension sleeve and about 1" too long with it.So had to set it up in lathe indexed off the factory machined section of the inside at the ends of the housing. Then machine a section on the outside of the housing for a steady rest to sit and then use boring bar to deepen the machined section for the sleeve on the short side to sit and the same thing done on the long side for the knuckle ball to sit, because it needed to be shortened.

A tube will be machined to fit over the machined section,to be a bit larger in diameter than the housing for added strength on both ends.

the short side componets.

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The short side components as they will be welded in. 

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Then the same of the long side.

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Cheers, Allen

 

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This is the components of the front shackle hanger that goes through the chassis rails. It's 2"x1/4" DOM tube, 1.5" bushings and sleeve.

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This is a pic with the 3/8" thick shackles on the tube.

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The rear shackle hanger assembly. 2"x1/4" DOM tube and 1/4" base that the tube will be welded into and that welded to the chassis rails.

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With the 3/8" shackles sitting in position.

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This is the steering knuckle assembly. 

It has the 1" thick steering arm, ARP 2000 knuckle studs. The cone washers & nuts haven't gotten here yet, donused two cap bolts to hold it in place for pic.

The Rock rings, dust shield eliminatior, HD bottom cap with grade 12.9 cap bolts & grade 8 spindle studs. With the junk hub for mock up.IMG_6529.thumb.JPG.f288e656efe42900b0e541c33bf3fecd.JPGIMG_6533.thumb.JPG.1cda5d0cd6c37e2853b4caae6980d904.JPGIMG_6534.thumb.JPG.e9ad36b66232418559b463743d12e14f.JPG

The RH steering arm.

IMG_6530.thumb.JPG.a10bc5759630024f62b2e094df937067.JPG

Cheers, Allen

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The knuckle balls and the rest of the axle assembly will be sand blasted to get good uniform surface, then coated with 2K Armor, top coated with satin CIO and then coated in WAR. 

Should last a long time! :-)

 

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21 hours ago, abosely said:

The knuckle balls and the rest of the axle assembly will be sand blasted to get good uniform surface, then coated with 2K Armor, top coated with satin CIO and then coated in WAR. 

Should last a long time! :-)

 

When you blast the Balls, for best adhesion Blast to a surface profile of 50>75 microns.

 

Lovely work, and great to see it.

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Working on the bolt in under flywheel and gearbox cross members currently.

Hopefully will have them made and in their jigs soon. Soon as I do I'll post pics.

 

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I haven't been able to make as much progress as I had hoped to recently, did get some smaller parts designed and built, ready for welding. But next week I'll be getting the steel so I can finish building the chassis! Right after I build a welding cart for my new welder. :-)  Decided to go ahead and get a good welder, a Hobart 210 MVP and is big enough to weld anything on the build, actually it can can weld up 3/8'.  

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This is the under the flywheel bolt in cross member, it's 2"x 3"x 3/16" with 1/4" plates to bolt through the chassis rails using sleeves in the bolt holes. The first pic shows it without the 1-1/2"x 1-1/2" x 3/16" angle and the 3/16" vertical reinforcements from the tubes to the plates, the second pic shows them sitting in place. The angle pieces will be welded to the main cross member for reinforcement, but mostly to have an angled face on the front  the cross member so if it hits a rock or something, it doesn't present a flat face to take the impact and help it slide up and over, since it's going to get smacked on occasion. Both the 2"x 3" tubes and the angle section will have either 3/8" or 1/2" holes drilled and tapped so can coat insides with etch prime, CIO and WAR, then thread a bolt in the holes to seal them up, later can unbolt them, flush insides and recoat if wanted.

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  These are the vertical braces tying in the 2 x 3 to the side plates, and making them all uniform size. 

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Cheers, Allen

 

 

 

 

 

 

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This is the bolt in cross member that goes under the gearbox, 1-1/2"x 2" x 3/16" and it will have the 3/16" angled front reinforcement (already made but didn't get pic) drilled and tapped for application of etch primer, CIO & WAR. The outer ends will be cut, boxed in and will bolt to brackets welded to the chassis rail.

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 Cutting out the 3/16" rear axle truss.

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This is all the pieces cut out of 3mm, ready to be welded up to make up all six outriggers. The bulkhead outriggers will have holes apply etch primer, CIO & WAR to the insides.

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Cheers, Allen

 

 

 

 

 

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Tis is the rear spring hanger, it's being made in 1/4" material, each side takes two side plates and the 1/4" dark line on the pattern is showing where the 3" wide plate gets welded to make a box, then the 1/4" spring hanger with reinforcing piece that gets welded in is welded to the bottom like in the pic.  

The hole of the spring hanger is 2" lower, like the military version and 2" to the rear to increase the wheelbase by 2" to 90", the rear shackle hangers are moved rearward 2" also, of course.   

The drawing, real high tech eh? lol

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Pattern made and test fitted.

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Final pattern checked against the drawing.

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Shoeing how the spring hanger fits.

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And one of the spring hanger.

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I'll take pics of the front spring hanger tomorrow.

Cheers, Allen

 

 

 

 

 

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Here is the pattern for the front spring hangers, there are four pieces like this all 1/4" material that welds on each side of the chassis horn. The blue line shows were the 1/4" plates go to box in the bottom of hanger and where the actual spring hanger welds onto the base. The red line just shows the outline of the chassis horn. These will have two 3/8" holes drilled and tapped so Buzzweld etch primer, CIO & WAR can be applied to the inside of the boxed section and then a bolt with sealant put in holes to seal it up, till want to check and re-coat if needed, all boxed in sections will have either taped holes or drain holes, depending on location and situation so all interior areas will be coated with Buzzweld etch primer, CIO & war. All the outer surfaces of the chassis, axles, driveline ect, will be coated in Buzzweld 2K Armor, CIO & WAR. Rust should not be a problem! lol

5a497e41b086f_download(16).png.55309c735af62287ec603ad7dd636962.png  5a497e53c29aa_download(17).png.65ccf322cd9028c0730d32296c15626d.png

Cheers, Allen

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allen. not seen any updates in a while im just starting to get back into the forum and build it up. be good to see if you have any updates for here?

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Yes I certainly do actually! :-)

I’ve been posting updates on Buzzweld’s FB page.

I’ll post up all the updates here and keep posting updates here now too.

Cheers, Allen 

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Allen,

well done in the work so far, looking forward to seeing this with the big Mercedes engine in it( sure that’s what Facebook tells me), just wish I had your enthusiasm,

Its certainly a daunting task you’ve taken on, if my truck had been in the same  condition as yours I think I would have just swept it up into a black bag and moved on! It’s just a pity I’ll only ever see this in pictures! 

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Thanks Al, Building from the ground up is fun for me. Yes, I'm using a Mercedes OM603 diesel, in it now, Diesel Pump UK will rebuild the pump with 7.5mm elements, build a custom exhaust manifold and will use one of their hybrid k14 fast spool turbos. Will give 270hp-280hp and 440Nm torque. I will be starting the new 100" chassis first of August, anxious to get started building the new chassis, incorporating a few things I learned building the first one.   

I need to update my thread on Buzzweld FB Page.

Cheers, Allen

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