Buzzweld Admin

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Buzzweld Admin last won the day on July 29 2017

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  1. That made for a fantastic read Alan, very in depth and informative, it's good to see how people approach their builds and overcome things in different ways. Following this as I would like to see how it progresses. Thanks for sharing
  2. How To Protect A Chassis From Rust… When you take your 4×4 off-road you are exposing the chassis to a whole range of elements which are ultimately going to shorten the lifespan of it, if left untreated, this guide explains how to protect a chassis from rust. Three things together cause rust to develop: iron, water and oxygen. Iron oxide, commonly known as rust occurs when water starts reacting with the carbon dioxide in the air resulting in a weak carbonic acid to be formed. The iron starts to dissolve, the water begins to breaks down into its basic components, oxygen and hydrogen. Oxygen and iron bond into iron oxide, releasing electrons in the process. To prevent the process of oxidation and rust from occurring, iron that is exposed to air and water needs to be protected. There are many options for protecting your vehicles chassis , some more expensive than others, some easier to apply than others. You need to decide which is going to be best for you. Rust occurs according to this equation: 4Fe + 3O2 = 2Fe2O3, just add water! Galvanising You can galvanise your chassis which is not always the most cost effective option, dipping an old chassis isn’t going to give you the best results, so if you decide to go that route, buy a brand new replacement chassis from one of the reputable suppliers. Reasons for not galvanising an old chassis 1. Modern dipping methods are very different to the old methods, mass production means cut backs such as a lack of pre-heat and faster cooling which leads to warping. 2. Acids are not always removed. 3. Slag is often left on surface causing poor finish 4. Usually have to sign a disclaimer 5. Process weakens steel due to high temps. An old galvanised chassis usually suffers delamination internally and reduced wall thickness as a result. Combine the two and you have ripe conditions for warpage fatigue or cracking/ failure A Galvanised chassis can still suffer from the dreaded rot over time, treating the chassis inside and out will prevent this from happening and prolong its life. Another upside to painting a brand new chassis is that it may not catch the eye of thieves, Land Rover theft is big business these days. Galvanised Chassis Zn (aq) + FeZn (s) –> Fe (s) + Zn2 (aq) = The galvanising process equation. Prepping A Galvanised Chassis For Paint You will find that your new chassis may well be shiny, but it certainly wont be smooth! The galvanising process leaves spikes that will need removing carefully before painting, this is important to give your paint the best surface to adhere to. The surface will also need cleaning and an alkaline solution should be used to remove the oxidisation which forms during the first 24 hours after hot dipping. Step 1: File down any sharp spikes left after dipping. Step 2: Use a quality degreaser to remove greasy marks. Spray on the degreaser or apply using a brush, rinse the detergent off after a 5-10 minute period and then make sure the chassis is fully dry inside and out before moving on to the next steps. Step 3: Brush T-Wash on to the chassis and wait for the chemical reaction to occur, the surface of the chassis will turn black at which time you should wash the chassis for a final time and leave to dry fully. If the T-wash doesn’t go fully black after washing down thoroughly it must be redone. Streaky grey/ silver/ black will result in low adhesion. Step 4: We don’t use an etch primer after t-wash. But most do. It’s just another layer, another point of failure. We do t-wash or etch, not both. This keeps cost down, makes the process simpler, faster and results in less points of failure later on. Step 5: It has been a long process but you are finally ready to apply the topcoat of your choice, we would fully recommend using Buzzweld Chassis In One or even 2k Extreme, these products have a proven track record. There are of course other products and the choice is entirely yours! If you do not want to go down the galvanised route for whatever reason and you decide to paint your vehicle’s chassis, you must still properly prepare before painting, poor preparation will lead to whatever product you choose failing a lot sooner. Preparing a chassis for painting Step 1: Clean the entire surface with a degreaser making sure you remove any grease, tar and any other contaminants that have built up on the surface, wash off then leave to dry thoroughly. Step 2: Once dry, strip the old paint to expose the bare metal underneath and to remove any existing traces of rust. After exposing the bare metal, now repeat step 1. Step 3. Once the chassis is fully stripped back and free from contaminants you can begin applying a primer. We recommend using Buzzweld Rust Control Primer (RCP), mainly because it has zero rust creep and modifies existing rust. Drying times are dependent on the environment, but you should leave 4 days before applying a top coat. Step 4: Before applying a top coat make sure the surface is clean from contaminates. We would now recommend using two coats of Buzzweld Chassis in One. CIO contains self-leafing glass flake for extreme abrasion resistance compared to standard coatings giving longer protection. Top coats can be applied within as little as 30 minutes of each other. Chasiss Fully Protected with cold-applied liquid epoxies and corrosion inhibitors. Sandblasting Most people shy away from using sandblasting mainly due to cost, however it probably isn’t as expensive as you think! Factor in the materials you will need and the time it will take for you to lay on your back and prep your chassis yourself and sandblasting really doesn’t cost all that much. If for some reason you still cant consider getting your chassis sandblasted then its time for some good old elbow grease… Chassis Sand Blasting Courtesy Of Preston Blasting Services Manual chassis prep Before you start you need to clean away all the oil, tar, road grime from the surfaces, it is going to make life a lot easier in the long run and save on materials, wire wheels and flap discs do not work very well when they get coated in old oil. Choose your weapons!! There are many abrasive materials to choose from, wire wheels, flap discs, 80 grit sandpaper etc.. When painting any surface, preparation is not only a basic fundamental, it will also dictate how long your chassis stays protected from the elements. Always spend a little extra time making sure that surfaces are free from contaminants, and leave as much time as possible between coats unless the manufacturers directions advise otherwise. When prepping your chassis with wire wheels or flap discs, be sure to wear the appropriate safety gear, googles to protect your eyes and gloves to protect your hands. Source: https://4mud.co.uk/how-to-protect-a-chassis-from-rust-step-by-step-guide/
  3. Welcome Al, as Craig suggested, start your own thread in the builds section of the forums, it will be interesting to follow and will also be a good point of reference for others looking to do a similar thing.
  4. Yep I will be topping mine off with WAR for a proper job. Also going to do my axles in a yellow tinted WAR coating.
  5. When I did my chassis in 2k, I did not apply RCP, just apply 2K direct to clean bare metal with a good key.
  6. Chassis In One Rust Stabilising Primer (Single pack, Fast drying, CIO) Description CIO is a fast drying, single pack true corrosion inhibitor. Contains rust stabilising pigment, and reinforced with self-leafing glass flake. Features 1. Glass flake improves longevity through a reduction in porosity, and an increase in abrasion resistance. 2. Direct to Rust. Chemically modifies corrosion over time to a more stable state 3. Damp Substrate tolerant, and excellent wetting out properties. 4. Fast Cure. Touch dry in as little as 3 minutes. Technical 8M2/1000ML theoretical. 7m2/1000ML typical* (coverage will vary depending on application method, porosity, temperature and profile of the substrate). DFT WET 122 microns DFT DRY 50 microns 41% Solids Application Brush, Roller, Buzzweld Underbody gun (neat, may require warming), thinned >5% normal fixed underbody gun, >15% conventional finishing gun (also available in aerosol), airless spray (3000 psi). 2c>35c application temperature. Always Two coats. Finish(s) Satin (textured finsh avaiable when rolled using a wool roller) Colour(s) Black Storage Protect from frost, in cool conditions and keep dry. Surface Preparation Best practice is to remove existing coating(s), degrease using a water soluble degreaser, and panel wipe. Loose / friable corrosion must be removed. Wash down with clean fresh water and allow to dry. For aluminium the surface must be keyed otherwise the product will not have a sufficient key for adhesion. Where a key cannot be presented an etch primer should be used. Use of abrasive media at low rpm low grit is typically sufficient. Prepare to ST2 standard of EN ISO 8501-1:2007 or equivalent. Ensure all scale and contamination is removed, wash down with clean water prior to application, and allow to dry. When blasting blast clean to sa1 standard of EN ISO 8501-1:2007 or equivalent with a surface profile of 50 to 75 microns (steel). All surfaces should be free from oil, grease, contamination, powdery flash rust,heavy rust and be firm and clean. Flash Point 21ºC - 32ºC. Health And safety at all times observe precautionary notices on containers. Refer to Material Safety Data Sheets available on request. Thinning Use Buzzweld CIO thinners for thinning this product. Equipment can be cleaned using a solvent gun wash. Other Notes When using Buzzweld CIO with other products care must be taken with overcoating. When overcoating RCP, the RCP must be fully cured for at least 24 hours in accordance with the data sheet. In some instances of low temperature and reduced ventilation it may be necessary to extend the cure time. Always do a test patch first when overcoating other coatings with CIO, and vice versa prior to full application. Always allow CIO to fully cure prior to overcoating with another product Blue spotting can occur within the coating when poor preparation has taken place. In this instance the coating should be removed, correct preparation effected, and then re application of the coating. The aerosols should be agitated for a minimum of two minutes. The can must be inverted after each use to clear the actuator of product. In the instance of a blockage, remove the yellow nozzle from actuator and invert can. Depress actuator several times in short blasts to clean the blockage. Replace with another nozzle. Stripe coating can be an effective way of building up additional protection around exposed parts of the substrate, and increase longevity of the solution. Coat exposed bolts, edges, areas of increased exposure and vulnerability, prior to the main product application. Drying Times (Typical, will vary additionally if thinned) Temperature 10C 18C 30C Touch Dry 33 22 14 Hard Dry 46 28 18
  7. Edward, I applied my 2k to my chassis with a foam roller and it gives a superb even finish. I used a brush for the hard to reach places, and for the impossible places I will just overcoat with WAR.
  8. Great read, the thrills and spills of Buzzweld.
  9. What a massive difference rejuvenating tired trims makes. Will do mine when it comes time to respray Thomas!
  10. Great idea for those pitted knuckle balls.
  11. Great product which provides maximum protection and rust stabilisation. I have recently applied Buzzweld 2k Armour to my chassis with a foam roller and the finish is superb.
  12. Need a physical Job again :'(

  13. BUZZWELD CIO "Chassis In One" Targeted at our customers who want a simple, medium term (10 years estimated) solution compared to our extreme 4 coat dual product system. Buzzweld CIO is a Corrosion modifying primer and top coat in one. Buzzweld CIO system requires just two coats to protect your chassis. Benefits- 1. Contains self-leafing glass flake for extreme abrasion resistance compared to standard coatings. 2. Contains a corrosion inhibiting pigment for class leading, rust prevention by stabilising corrosion to a lower reacting form 3. Over coating times are as little as 30 minutes, meaning no breaks required between coats in most situations. 4.Designed from the ground up for hand prepared steel. 5. Primer, and top coat in one. You save significant amounts of time and money with this system that will still outlast most competitors (not our extreme system). 6. Satin finish for oem look. 7. Suitable for over-painting firmly adherent existing rust. 8. Chemically modifies rust over time. Buzzweld Chassis In One Options Spray neat using our High pressure Underbody Gun. Spray Thinned Using conventional Spray Use CIO as a bedliner, or anti-slip coating
  14. We are delighted to have finally launched our brand new Buzzweld forum! We’ve planned for months and months on how, what and when to create what we believe to be a fantastic new platform to shout about the fantastic range of products available from Buzzweld. Endless discussions were had about the benefits of various software and structures for the forum , but we knew above everything else we wanted this to become the hub for all things Buzzweld. We understand that not everyone likes forums, so we have taken every-bodies feedback into consideration, and stripped out all the unnecessary elements and added a Facebook sign in feature. No one wants to spend their (precious) time looking for login details to websites, so we have made it nice and easy. The end result is a clean, fresh and slick forum with great optimisation where visitors can easily navigate through the information they need on on any of our products, get support from the Buzzweld team or other community members, find guides on preparation and application. The forum is still under construction, but is fully functional, so sign up and join the discussion today!
  15. We are delighted to have finally launched our brand new Buzzweld forum – a very warm welcome to you on behalf of Buzzweld! We’ve planned for months and months on how, what and when to create what we believe to be a fantastic new platform to shout about the fantastic range of products available from Buzzweld. Endless discussions were had about the benefits of various software and structures for the forum , but we knew above everything else we wanted this to become the hub for all things Buzzweld. We understand that not everyone likes forums, so we have taken every-bodies feedback into consideration, and stripped out all the unnecessary elements and added a Facebook sign in feature. No one wants to spend their (precious) time looking for login details to websites, so we have made it nice and easy. The end result is a clean, fresh and slick forum with great optimisation where visitors can easily navigate through the information they need on on any of our products, get support from the Buzzweld team or other community members, find guides on preparation and application. The forum is still under construction, but is fully functional, so sign up and join the discussion today!