abosely

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abosely last won the day on November 7 2017

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About abosely

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  1. Thanks Al, Building from the ground up is fun for me. Yes, I'm using a Mercedes OM603 diesel, in it now, Diesel Pump UK will rebuild the pump with 7.5mm elements, build a custom exhaust manifold and will use one of their hybrid k14 fast spool turbos. Will give 270hp-280hp and 440Nm torque. I will be starting the new 100" chassis first of August, anxious to get started building the new chassis, incorporating a few things I learned building the first one. I need to update my thread on Buzzweld FB Page. Cheers, Allen
  2. Yes I certainly do actually! :-) I’ve been posting updates on Buzzweld’s FB page. I’ll post up all the updates here and keep posting updates here now too. Cheers, Allen
  3. Here is the pattern for the front spring hangers, there are four pieces like this all 1/4" material that welds on each side of the chassis horn. The blue line shows were the 1/4" plates go to box in the bottom of hanger and where the actual spring hanger welds onto the base. The red line just shows the outline of the chassis horn. These will have two 3/8" holes drilled and tapped so Buzzweld etch primer, CIO & WAR can be applied to the inside of the boxed section and then a bolt with sealant put in holes to seal it up, till want to check and re-coat if needed, all boxed in sections will have either taped holes or drain holes, depending on location and situation so all interior areas will be coated with Buzzweld etch primer, CIO & war. All the outer surfaces of the chassis, axles, driveline ect, will be coated in Buzzweld 2K Armor, CIO & WAR. Rust should not be a problem! lol Cheers, Allen
  4. Tis is the rear spring hanger, it's being made in 1/4" material, each side takes two side plates and the 1/4" dark line on the pattern is showing where the 3" wide plate gets welded to make a box, then the 1/4" spring hanger with reinforcing piece that gets welded in is welded to the bottom like in the pic. The hole of the spring hanger is 2" lower, like the military version and 2" to the rear to increase the wheelbase by 2" to 90", the rear shackle hangers are moved rearward 2" also, of course. The drawing, real high tech eh? lol Pattern made and test fitted. Final pattern checked against the drawing. Shoeing how the spring hanger fits. And one of the spring hanger. I'll take pics of the front spring hanger tomorrow. Cheers, Allen
  5. This is the bolt in cross member that goes under the gearbox, 1-1/2"x 2" x 3/16" and it will have the 3/16" angled front reinforcement (already made but didn't get pic) drilled and tapped for application of etch primer, CIO & WAR. The outer ends will be cut, boxed in and will bolt to brackets welded to the chassis rail. Cutting out the 3/16" rear axle truss. This is all the pieces cut out of 3mm, ready to be welded up to make up all six outriggers. The bulkhead outriggers will have holes apply etch primer, CIO & WAR to the insides. Cheers, Allen
  6. I haven't been able to make as much progress as I had hoped to recently, did get some smaller parts designed and built, ready for welding. But next week I'll be getting the steel so I can finish building the chassis! Right after I build a welding cart for my new welder. :-) Decided to go ahead and get a good welder, a Hobart 210 MVP and is big enough to weld anything on the build, actually it can can weld up 3/8'. This is the under the flywheel bolt in cross member, it's 2"x 3"x 3/16" with 1/4" plates to bolt through the chassis rails using sleeves in the bolt holes. The first pic shows it without the 1-1/2"x 1-1/2" x 3/16" angle and the 3/16" vertical reinforcements from the tubes to the plates, the second pic shows them sitting in place. The angle pieces will be welded to the main cross member for reinforcement, but mostly to have an angled face on the front the cross member so if it hits a rock or something, it doesn't present a flat face to take the impact and help it slide up and over, since it's going to get smacked on occasion. Both the 2"x 3" tubes and the angle section will have either 3/8" or 1/2" holes drilled and tapped so can coat insides with etch prime, CIO and WAR, then thread a bolt in the holes to seal them up, later can unbolt them, flush insides and recoat if wanted. These are the vertical braces tying in the 2 x 3 to the side plates, and making them all uniform size. Cheers, Allen
  7. Working on the bolt in under flywheel and gearbox cross members currently. Hopefully will have them made and in their jigs soon. Soon as I do I'll post pics.
  8. The knuckle balls and the rest of the axle assembly will be sand blasted to get good uniform surface, then coated with 2K Armor, top coated with satin CIO and then coated in WAR. Should last a long time! :-)
  9. This is the steering knuckle assembly. It has the 1" thick steering arm, ARP 2000 knuckle studs. The cone washers & nuts haven't gotten here yet, donused two cap bolts to hold it in place for pic. The Rock rings, dust shield eliminatior, HD bottom cap with grade 12.9 cap bolts & grade 8 spindle studs. With the junk hub for mock up. The RH steering arm. Cheers, Allen
  10. This is the components of the front shackle hanger that goes through the chassis rails. It's 2"x1/4" DOM tube, 1.5" bushings and sleeve. This is a pic with the 3/8" thick shackles on the tube. The rear shackle hanger assembly. 2"x1/4" DOM tube and 1/4" base that the tube will be welded into and that welded to the chassis rails. With the 3/8" shackles sitting in position.
  11. This is the front axle short side. It is to short without the extension sleeve and about 1" too long with it.So had to set it up in lathe indexed off the factory machined section of the inside at the ends of the housing. Then machine a section on the outside of the housing for a steady rest to sit and then use boring bar to deepen the machined section for the sleeve on the short side to sit and the same thing done on the long side for the knuckle ball to sit, because it needed to be shortened. A tube will be machined to fit over the machined section,to be a bit larger in diameter than the housing for added strength on both ends. the short side componets. The short side components as they will be welded in. Then the same of the long side. Cheers, Allen
  12. I got the machining done on the axle housings. This is a front housing. This is the rear axle. The machined area on the housing gets a tube with it's ID machined to tightly fit on the housing and the OD of the tube sleeve, machined to 3.5" for the FF/Disc flange to fit and a bit larger diameter on the inboard side of the flange so they have a shoulder to set against to help lone them up. Here the flange has a front spindle bolted on. Hers is a shot of it with a front hub fitted. That hub is a junk hub just being used for mock up. Waiting for the 'new' hubs to get here.
  13. The front starts out as a FJ60 housing, gets everything cut off it, including the stock sheet metal diff cover and knuckle balls and cleaned up, both housings will be media blasted to bare steel for 2K Armor, CIO and WAR coatings. The inside where the knuckle balls set are nicely machined, both sides get the machined area deepened. The long side to be shortened and the short side to be shortened 1" so when the extension sleeve is added it will be correct length. The extension sleeve and knuckle ball fit tightly, in the pic they are just part way inserted for the pic. The front is drilled and tapped for the Ruff Stuff Diff cover to bolt on. The front and rear diff covers make a nice way to inspect the diffs in addition to protecting the gears inside. Then then the caster and pinion angles are set and the spring perches welded on. Hopefully the machine work will be done next week. Both the front and rear housings are getting trusses and some reinforcements also. If I am posting too many pics and going into too much detail please let me know. Cheers, Allen
  14. Here is some info on the rear axle. Starting with FJ60 housing, cut around the drum flange and knock them off. Under the flange is a nice machined surface that is parallel with each other that makes lining up things easier. Both of the machined surfaces will be extended inwards. The long side so it can be shortened and the short side so it can be lengthened. A 3.5" OD tube will have the ID machined to fit over the machined surfaces and Ruff Stuff Disc/FF will be welded on housing and tubes. FJ60 front spindles bolt to these amd front hubs go on the spindles. The inside of the spindles get machined to fit Marlin Crawler Ecoseals to keep gear oil in housing, the hubs run grease like they do in the front. A spindle with Ecoseal fitted. Then the pinion angle is set and the spring perches welded on and a Ruff Stuff diff cover is bolted on for protection. Cheers, Allen
  15. Thanks Craig, I have been thinking and designing out this build for almost a year now. It has slowly come together with input and suggestions from others and from a lot of reading and research. :-) It's really important to me that she looks "right' when all said and done. As Dave Marsh put it, it will look like a SIIA, but somehow different and will need to be checked out to see whats different. Also for me it's not just about looking nice or impressive, but whats really important is the details that make it up, that everything is done right, components and parts chosen and built so everything is balanced and doesn't have few areas or aspects out of line with the overall build and purpose of the truck. I want her to be a very capable, rugged, reliable and long lasting truck that can go most anywhere within reason. But not an extreme or extreme looking specialized truck. To look rugged, serious, not military looking, but with the no frills purposeful look of a military truck, sort of mil spec built. If that makes sense. lol Cheers, Allen