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    Cavity paint required

    Al Mac
    By Al Mac,
    I'm looking to use the cavity paint for inside the chassis, but I'm unsure of how much I will require.  Is the 2.5l can enough to do a 110 chassis and bulkhead? Thanks Al

    69' SIIA Build

    By abosely,
    Well I thought I'd start a post about my 69' SIIA build. The reason I call it a build and not a rebuild probably make sense as I tell a bit a bout it. :-) I'm on the Big Island Hawaii and kinda stumbled into a 69"IIA SWB, in serious need of help. Here she is on the trailer ready to go home. Found her on the very top tip of the Island, about 100 mi away. Heres a close up of the front after she got home.  Ok, from such humble beginnings a new SIIA will eventually emerge, as if a butterfly from it's cocoon. I'll try not to be boring... I have spent the last year figuring and designing what I want her to be, viewing everything as part of an over all system, with no one thing jumping out as noticeable. As in, wow, thats a big lift and big tires or something. I'm building her like a Land Rover SIIA, built in the 90s using the type of components from then, which to me are kinda the pinnacle of LR technology, still rugged and without much electrical and no electronics. So here's a basic overview of her build specs: Front axle modified Toyota FJ60 axle housings, long side shorter, short side lengthened, so diff sits in standard location, with truss and a bit of reinforcing, RCV custom 30 spline shafts & 300M CV joints & drive flange, 4" wider WMS to WMS, FJ60 diff, V6 Toyota calipers (2-38mm & 2 42mm pistons) vented LC discs, Sixshooter knuckles, custom steer from behind (puts tie rods above and behind axle, out of way & protected) steering sys with GM 1 ton tie rod ends, FJ60 steering box, Vanco Hydro brakes (no vacuum pump & booster) upgraded PS pump to run PS & brakes. Brake lines all in gravel guard.  Rear axle, modified FJ60 housing, long side shortened, short side lengthened, 2.5" wider WMS to WMS, truss & a bit of reinforcing, Ruff Stuff disc/FF flange, LC front hub, chromoly front spindle, custom RCV 30 spline axles & press fit drive flange, FJ60 vented rotors & caliper (4-38mm pistons, don't need as much power on rear wheels) FJ60 diff, axle moved 2" aft using redrilled spring perch & extension plate, giving 90" WB, but can be converted back to 88" easily.  Building chassis, I have finished making the patterns. 3.5mm material for chassis rails, cross member 1 & 4, Richard Chassis 109 Military 1 ton dumb irons, Australian Military 1/2 ton SWB rear spring hangers (duel hight spring eye holes) bulkhead outriggers, LH & RH fuel outriggers (duel Alisport aluminum fuel tanks) under engine cross member built up (3"x1.5" x 1/4") bolt in cross member, under gearbox built up (1.5"x2"x1/4") bolt in cross member, rear cross member, built from 4"x6"x 3/16" and a 4"x1"x3/16" tube welded to bottom of cross member and cut out to same profile as stock SIIA cross member, but stronger and no places to catch water. Suspension, Rocky Mountain 3 leaf Parabolics. Rear parabolic springs used on front, flipped around, so chassis horns & dumb irons only need to be extended 3-1/4", Ruff Stuff DOM bushed sleeves for shackles, Ruff Stuff HD rear shackle hangers, Ford F250 extended shock towers, Bilstein 7100 long travel (TBD probably 14" travel) shocks.    LC 5.5x16 split rims, 255/85-16 MT tires. rear swing away basket that can carry 3 jerry cans, Protection & Performance roll cage kit with chassis tie ins & steel tube snorkel, building a brush bar very similar to the Camel Trophy Defenders, but customized to look proper on an SIIA, HD 4"x4"x1/4 bumper. Undercover Covers tilt and frame, I have a tropical hard top roof and sides that can be put on later if wanted, early Defender front seats, rebuilt using temper foam, cubby box, 4 rebuilt fold up rear seats.  Remanufactured, tuned 300Tdi, Turner performance head, slam panel removed, using SI/Military bonnet clips makes possible to use Alisport full width 70mm XL radiator and full width front mount intercooler, remanufactured Stubby R380 & LT230 with a few strength upgrades, deluxe dished bonnet to carry spare on bonnet, Rocky Mountain door tops. New bulkhead built by Dave Marsh. Using full suite of Buzzweld's products for all paint, primer, coatings etc. The only thing that might not be Buzzweld will be top coat of Bronze Green body paint. Using the best product for each area of the vehicle and will document everything and take pics of the various steps of each type of product for all the different components, from disc calipers to chassis to engine and gearbox coatings. I think this may be the first ground up build using the full suite of Buzzweld products. I'm looking forward to using the best combination of the best Buzzweld products for any given part or components, for maximum long term protection and performance. I'll be ordering my first batch of Buzzweld products next week to be put on the pallet with the 300Tdi, gearbox, TC and some other stuff, then will be putting another order to be sent over on the pallet with the bulkhead Dave is building for me, to finish up the rest of the coatings and finishes needed. Oh and for the offroad trailer I'll be building for the SIIA to pull, it will get the full house Buzzweld treatment too!    I'll be starting on the chassis in couple weeks, I've worked on the axle housings and have them ready to have the ends machined. I'll get some pics up of the axle housings in next day or so.          Hopefully I haven't bored everyone to tears! :-) I think it's going to be a fun little adventure. I tend to like the technical side of things and like to know the details of things. If I'm being too detailed, please let me know.  Cheers, Allen           

    How To Correctly Prep A Chassis For Buzzweld Application

    Buzzweld Admin
    By Buzzweld Admin,
    How To Protect A Chassis From Rust… When you take your 4×4 off-road you are exposing the chassis to a whole range of elements which are ultimately going to shorten the lifespan of it, if left untreated, this guide explains how to protect a chassis from rust. Three things together cause rust to develop: iron, water and oxygen. Iron oxide, commonly known as rust occurs when water starts reacting with the carbon dioxide in the air resulting in a weak carbonic acid to be formed. The iron starts to dissolve, the water begins to breaks down into its basic components, oxygen and hydrogen. Oxygen and iron bond into iron oxide, releasing electrons in the process. To prevent the process of oxidation and rust from occurring, iron that is exposed to air and water needs to be protected.

    There are many options for protecting your vehicles chassis , some more expensive than others, some easier to apply than others. You need to decide which is going to be best for you. Rust occurs according to this equation: 4Fe + 3O2 = 2Fe2O3, just add water! Galvanising You can galvanise your chassis which is not always the most cost effective option, dipping an old chassis isn’t going to give you the best results, so if you decide to go that route, buy a brand new replacement chassis from one of the reputable suppliers. Reasons for not galvanising  an old chassis 1. Modern dipping methods are very different to the old methods, mass production means cut backs such as a lack of pre-heat and faster cooling which leads to warping.
    2. Acids are not always removed.
    3. Slag is often left on surface causing poor finish
    4. Usually have to sign a disclaimer
    5. Process weakens steel due to high temps. An old galvanised chassis usually suffers delamination internally and reduced wall thickness as a result. Combine the two and you have ripe conditions for warpage fatigue or cracking/ failure A Galvanised chassis can still suffer from the dreaded rot over time, treating the chassis inside and out will prevent this from happening and prolong its life. Another upside to painting a brand new chassis is that it may not catch the eye of thieves, Land Rover theft is big business these days. Galvanised Chassis Zn (aq) + FeZn (s) –> Fe (s) + Zn2 (aq) = The galvanising process equation. Prepping A Galvanised Chassis For Paint You will find that your new chassis may well be shiny, but it certainly wont be smooth! The galvanising process leaves spikes that will need removing carefully before painting, this is important to give your paint the best surface to adhere to. The surface will also need cleaning and an alkaline solution should be used to remove the oxidisation which forms during the first 24 hours after hot dipping. Step 1: File down any sharp spikes left after dipping. Step 2: Use a quality degreaser to remove greasy marks. Spray on the degreaser or apply using a brush, rinse the detergent off after a 5-10 minute period and then make sure the chassis is fully dry inside and out before moving on to the next steps. Step 3: Brush T-Wash on to the chassis and wait for the chemical reaction to occur, the surface of the chassis will turn black at which time you should wash the chassis for a final time and leave to dry fully. If the T-wash doesn’t go fully black after washing down thoroughly it must be redone. Streaky grey/ silver/ black will result in low adhesion. Step 4: We don’t use an etch primer after t-wash. But most do. It’s just another layer, another point of failure. We do t-wash or etch, not both. This keeps cost down, makes the process simpler, faster and results in less points of failure later on. Step 5: It has been a long process but you are finally ready to apply the topcoat of your choice, we would fully recommend using Buzzweld Chassis In One or even 2k Extreme, these products have a proven track record. There are of course other products and the choice is entirely yours! If you do not want to go down the galvanised route for whatever reason and you decide to paint your vehicle’s chassis, you must still properly prepare before painting, poor preparation will lead to whatever product you choose failing a lot sooner. Preparing a chassis for painting Step 1: Clean the entire surface with a degreaser making sure you remove any grease, tar and any other contaminants that have built up on the surface, wash off then leave to dry thoroughly. Step 2: Once dry, strip the old paint to expose the bare metal underneath and to remove any existing traces of rust. After exposing the bare metal, now repeat step 1. Step 3. Once the chassis is fully stripped back and free from contaminants you can begin applying a primer. We recommend using Buzzweld Rust Control Primer (RCP), mainly because it has zero rust creep and modifies existing rust. Drying times are dependent on the environment, but you should leave 4 days before applying a top coat. Step 4: Before applying a top coat make sure the surface is clean from contaminates. We would now recommend using two coats of Buzzweld Chassis in One. CIO contains self-leafing glass flake for extreme abrasion resistance compared to standard coatings giving longer protection. Top coats can be applied within as little as 30 minutes of each other. Chasiss Fully Protected with cold-applied liquid epoxies and corrosion inhibitors. Sandblasting Most people shy away from using sandblasting mainly due to cost, however it probably isn’t as expensive as you think! Factor in the materials you will need and the time it will take for you to lay on your back and prep your chassis yourself and sandblasting really doesn’t cost all that much.
    If for some reason you still cant consider getting your chassis sandblasted then its time for some good old elbow grease… Chassis Sand Blasting Courtesy Of Preston Blasting Services Manual chassis prep Before you start you need to clean away all the oil, tar, road grime from the surfaces, it is going to make life a lot easier in the long run and save on materials, wire wheels and flap discs do not work very well when they get coated in old oil.
    Choose your weapons!! There are many abrasive materials to choose from, wire wheels, flap discs, 80 grit sandpaper etc.. When painting any surface, preparation is not only a basic fundamental, it will also dictate how long your chassis stays protected from the elements.
    Always spend a little extra time making sure that surfaces are free from contaminants, and leave as much time as possible between coats unless the manufacturers directions advise otherwise. When prepping your chassis with wire wheels or flap discs, be sure to wear the appropriate safety gear, googles to protect your eyes and gloves to protect your hands. Source: https://4mud.co.uk/how-to-protect-a-chassis-from-rust-step-by-step-guide/  

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